Ethical Manufacturing in the UK — Sara Collins

What is the Sampling Process

The sampling process, also known as product development is a really important part to bringing your product to life. Think of sampling as a practice run where potential production issues are resolved and the best production process is figured out, i.e the method of sewing, working out if the tension needs to be changed on different machines (most products require a minimum of 2 machines) and of course, the production cost. Trying to work out costings without sampling or handling the product is extremely difficult and not effective and is when you’ll encounter most problems with manufacturing.

There are two different stages to the sampling process and identifying which stage you’re at is the first step in preparation;

1st Stage - You have a Design and Tech pack (or relevant measurements) ready to be made into a pattern and toile. At this stage it’s also beneficial to have a decision on the type of fabric you want to use, for example Woven or Knit (Jersey) as this is really important for pattern cutting a design and also means that an appropriate toile fabric can be used. If you want to have a toile made in a particular fabric you can send the fabric otherwise it will probably be made in calico (for woven fabrics) or Jersey alternative. Other things to consider and prepare at this stage is identifying or sending any inspiration pieces, this may be a finish detail you really like or a garment that can be used to take fit measurements from and the last thing to consider are any trims such as tapes, bindings, zips, buttons, poppers etc. Trims can affect how a product is constructed and therefore has to be considered in the pattern. Having sample amounts of these trims to use will be hugely beneficial during the sample process.

Once your pattern and toile are complete you’ll be asked for feedback and any changes required from your first toile, ready for a sample to be made. This should be made in the correct quality you intend to produce the design so any further changes can be identified, this also means you’ll have to purchase a few metres of your chosen fabric and will have the option to make further changes after this sample. Depending on the amount of changes required you may also need to have a further sample made.

After approval of your sample, your pattern has to be graded to the relevant sizes you want to offer. Some brands may then do what’s called a Pre-production size run to ensure they are happy with the fit on each size, however many smaller brands we work with go straight into production and make tweaks further down the line if required.

2nd Stage- You might be further along in the process if you’re already producing the item yourself or are moving production to us but sampling your product/design is still required and this should be made in the correct fabric quality and trims and sample approval will be necessary. You can also prepare a target price for production to share with us but I would advise against simply thinking of it as an hourly rate vs the time it takes to make an item as a production price must also include overheads such as equipment, running costs and staff.

We often find that both new and established brands forget to budget for the sample process and sampling is charged at a higher rate so it’s important to make this part of the preparation. Price quotes are generally valid for a maximum of 3months, sometimes less depending on manufacturers and this also applies when fabric sourcing, for example the price of cotton can change on a monthly basis so if you’re not intending to sample and/or start producing within 3months then this must be considered and you will need to check for up to date prices.

Key Things to Prepare

Design Sketches and/or Tech Packs
Intended Fabrics swatches and/or sample lengths.
Trim Samples
Inspiration pieces for fit/finishes.
An idea on retail & target prices.
A development budget to cover sampling/pattern costs.

ABOUT LANNYXSTUDIO

We are a design and development studio with a Micro factory set up meaning high-quality, agile sampling and manufacturing. Our ability to work through the full development and production process with you means we can give input and knowledge at each stage for the best outcome. We’re the ideal partner for Small and Independent businesses offering Pattern Cutting, Sampling, Grading, Small batch and Made To Order production options plus we have a specialised Upcycling service to turn your unsold or defective stock into new and exciting products.

Comment below any questions you might have and we will get back to you ✌